Sunny，你不识货。如果把这朵高斯花做成油画，再搞得旧一点，说是在欧洲什么什么宫殿里找出来的、经过碳蜕变测定属于17世纪。。。价格就不得了勒。

京晋兄，你们都是我的老师，我应该努力学。

James, your Gaussian Blur result is .................. horrible !
.

Sunny, 你真厉害，成了。
DNG为什么会比其他的RAW都厉害呢？徕卡这个绝代恐龙数码后背居然还是这么厉害？我要把D3X、大马三的RAW都拉出来遛遛、看看。

Sunny，京晋兄，我按照你们的示意图把PS的Preference进行更改，其他都行，就是无法看到有“大小：6144 X 4096"。我的“大小”很小，无法调大，是什么原因呢？
更改后试了一下 - 好处是一打开JPEG照片，就可以用ACR来修饰了。原来在打开JPEN时，是直接进入PS的，无法用ACR修改照片。

本帖最后由 james0075 于 2013-8-16 07:52 编辑

崔兄说的对
勾选“打开为智能对象”

京晋大哥是對的 .............
.

詹兄，我的理解，按阳光兄的修改设置后，jpg格式文件也可先在ACR中打开，毕竟ACR中修饰图片简捷无损

謝謝大夫，已扔到 PLUG-ins  文件夹里面了，但找不到有简体中文的, 是不是在這個位置里面 ?
. 本帖最后由 sunnycas 于 2013-8-15 19:28 编辑

James, did you change the setting in your Photoshop CS6 ?
.

Sunny，哪，我们应该等V3！

ISO 110 vs ISO 800
..
..

James,

(1) 你用 28-300 也能用的和小胖子一樣好 .............  
(2) For wild life photography,  tripod 是少不了 ...........
.

Sunny，你是指这些观点？我非常赞同他。
Here is my "MUST" list for a walk-around camera. All 7 are critical and if any single requirement isn't met I might as well throw the camera in the garbage (or sell it as fast as I can).

1. It (the full kit - camera and lenses) MUST be small and light. Context is needed here - I'm not looking for "fits in a shirt pocket" small. I'm looking for "can fit in a small case - or two - that fit on a belt system" small. I want to be able to walk around for hours on end with the ENTIRE system on my waist and hardly notice it.

2. It MUST have a viewfinder! OK - I have tried (and tried, and tried) to get accustomed to using a LCD screen as a ※※※※※ for a viewfinder. And maybe it's just me, but I truly dislike shooting outdoor shots using a LCD screen. Ninety percent of the time I can't see anything in it (due to reflections or just overall darkness of the display in bright sunlight) and I simply don't feel part of the scene or the photographic process. No viewfinder (or at least optional viewfinder) and I don't want the camera

3. It MUST be responsive. I am a wildlife photographer that likes to shoot animals that are actually wild and free-ranging - not sitting in one place in a zoo or game farm. Overall my need for responsiveness in a camera isn't that different from a sports/action photographer. And, by responsiveness I mean fast and accurate autofocus (preferably that can do a good job of tracking a moving subject - think running deer or birds on flight) and a decent frame rate and burst size (number of images that can be stored in the buffer at any one time).

4. It MUST cover from wide angle to medium telephoto focal lengths. To work for me my small and light kit must cover the focal range from about 28mm to 300mm (in full frame terms) in one or two lenses. If I can expand on this range (while maintaining decent image quality) - all the better!

5. It MUST produce good-to-very-good quality images over a wide range of shooting conditions. Image quality is notoriously hard to define and the meaning of "very good image quality" varies dramatically between users. I have very intentionally tagged on the "over a wide range of shooting conditions" phrase on the end of this sentence - many, many cameras (even including ones with manual focus) can capture high quality images under controlled conditions. But a walk-around camera is to be used, by definition, spontaneously under diverse conditions. And, a walk-around camera being used by a wildlife photographer to "grab" decent quality shots of randomly encountered wildlife under totally unpredictably conditions automatically puts a lot of demands on the camera (including a fast and accurate autofocus system, decent ISO performance, etc.). To see what I consider good-to-very good image quality, feel free to browse any of the image galleries on this website.

6. It MUST offer acceptable high ISO performance. Ok, this is almost as subjective as "good quality images" and must be further qualified. I do NOT expect ANY walk-around camera to perform as well as a D3s at high ISO settings (at least for a few more years). But I do expect that it can capture images with manageable noise (not NO noise, but manageable noise) for the uses I expect to put the images to up to about ISO 800. "Uses I expect to put the images to" includes web use (up to 1200 pixels wide), inkjet prints up to about 20" (50 cm) on the long axis, and images up to about 8.5" x 11" (21.5 x 28 cm) printed on an offset press (that's full page - or close to it - in most magazines).

7. It MUST shoot (and make available) raw images. I have yet to meet a camera that sees scenes and/or produces JPEG output the way my eyes do. I like to reserve the right to push that image back as close to "as seen" as my memory (and skill in post-processing) will allow. And shooting raw images maximizes the number of options I have in "shaping" my final output.

8. Video capture capabilities? Sorry - I don't care at all about the V1's video capabilities. I shoot stills, not video. I know next to nothing about video and any comments I would make on it would totally lack credibility. Those of you who will be considering and factoring video capabilities into your "purchase or not to purchase" decision will have to go elsewhere. Sorry, but the best marketing geniuses in the world wouldn't be able to convince me that video is a feature that will "complete me" (my apologies to Tom Cruise for stealing that one).

This field test is intended as a living, evolving document. It will be produced and modified over time as I learn more and more about this camera. There will be a minimum of three chapters in this story. Chapter 1 includes my early impressions of the V1 paired with two different lenses (the 1 NIKKOR VR 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6 and the 1 NIKKOR VR 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6) after using the camera almost daily for about 3 weeks. It includes only a few images. It is perhaps a tad premature, but I'm presenting it because I am receiving a lot of email asking me what I think about the camera (and I already have many thoughts about it) and because I know many are debating buying (or asking for!) the camera as a Christmas gift.

Chapter 2 will appear in early 2012 and include information about the operation and usabilty of a few key V1 accessories, including the GP-N100 GPS and the Mount Adapter FT1 (which allows Nikon F-mount lenses to be used with the Nikon 1 cameras). It will also include more images captured with the Nikon V1 using assorted F-mount Nikkor lenses.

Chapter 3 will be a candid discussion of what I think of the suitability of the V1 for the various things a nature photographer might want to use it for - first as a general walk-around camera (and my thoughts on this are already pretty clear), as a camera for wildlife photography, and as a camera for landscape photography. This update will follow hot on the heels of the update that will add Chapter 2.

Chapter 4? I'm not sure there WILL be a chapter 4 - but perhaps. Stay tuned!

II. Chapter 1: Early Impressions.

Post Date: December 17, 2011
Update: March 6, 2012. Minor additions to Chapter 1 (short section called "How are the 1 Nikkor Lenses" added).
Update: March 7, 2012. Minor revision: Executive summary of this section moved to Introduction

A. Some Early Thoughts on the Nikon V1...

Despite what most marketeeers would like to have us think, a camera is far more than a list of bullet points or a long, unweighted list of likes and dislikes. In the real world some variables are far more important than others. And, the weight or importance of the variables and/or specifications varies between users. For me (and while using the V1 as a walk-around camera) the absolutely most critical variables are size and weight of the kit, image quality, and camera responsiveness. Whizzy new features introduced on the V1 - such as "Motion Snapshot Mode" (where still images and brief movie vignettes are combined in a single function) and "Smart Photo Selector Mode" (where you're shooting "hard-to-time" shots and you just keep your shooting finger down and let the camera decide which of the shots are the 5 best and keep only those) - may appeal to some, but not to me. So I'll focus on and discuss simply those things that matter to me (hey, it's my review!):

1. Size and weight: This one's easy - the V1 is not the smallest mirrorless camera out there, but it easily fits into a small case that snaps onto my Think Tank Photo belt system and sits on my right hip. The case I use is Lowepro's Rezo TLZ 10 and it accommodates the V1 with both the GPS unit (GP-N100) and the 30-110mm zoom lens (with lens hood extended) attached. I carry the 10-30mm zoom in the very small Lowepro 1S lens pouch that sits on my left hip. The 40.5mm filter thread polarizing filter that happens to fit both zooms (yippee!) fits in a small pocket on the front side of the Rezo TLZ 10 case while in its protective case. The entire kit (including the belt system) tips the scales at 1322 gm (2 lb 15 oz). In comparison, my D3s and 28-300mm zoom (which not-so-coincidentally covers virtually the identical focal range) is 2340 gm (5 lb 3 oz) completey naked (no case, no strap, etc.). For those of you as anal as me, here's how the weights break down:

• V1 with 30-110 zoom (hood included) plus GP-N100 (GPS) attached: 598 gm
• 10-30mm lens: 130 gm
• 40.5mm B&W Circular Polarizer and plastic carrying case: 36 gm
• LowePro Rezo TLZ 10 Camera Bag: 172 gm
• Think Tank Photo Pro Speed Belt (size M-L): 290 gm

When go into the field I always have a caboodle on my belt along with this camera kit, and that includes bear spray and holster (442 gm), chalk bag filled with dog treats (160 gm) and small Think Tank Photo fanny pack with a few bits in it (244 gm). So the entire kit and caboodle weighs 2168 gm (4 lb 12 oz). I can walk around all day and not even notice this kit on my waist - after all lots of folks have at least 5 lbs of extra weight on their waist and never seem to notice it! So for me the V1 system completely meets my need for being small and light.

2. Image Quality: I won't even try to define the phrase "image quality". And, as detailed above, all I really expect or want a walk-around camera to do for me is to capture images of sufficient quality for the following uses:

• Viewing on an electronic display (images for web use, emailing, etc.) - so images that look good at up to about 1200 pixels on the long axis
• Inkjet images up to about 20" (50 cm) on the long axis and
• Images up to about 8.5" x 11" (21.5 x 28 cm) printed on an offset press (full page - or close to it - in most magazines).

After shooting and examining about 1000 images with the V1 I'm completely comfortable in saying that the image quality IS good enough to meet my demands, especially if one shoots raw images and is prepared to "work" on them a little (see below for a few sample images). Subjectively I'd rate the quality of static scenes as slightly better (especially in terms of colour) than what I was able to coax out of my Olympus E-P3. And - and I expect that many might find this next comparison interesting - they are very close in quality AT LOW ISO settings (about ISO 320 or below) to what I can produce with my D3s when paired with the 28-300mm f3.5-5.6 ED VR super zoom, which I'd describe as "a pretty darned good lens for a super zoom" (OK to quote me on that!).

What about ISO performance? Here's a place where I definitely don't want to be misquoted or taken out of context. To begin with, the V1 is no D3s. However, I have to admit that given the size of the image sensor (about 1/8 that of a D3s, 1/3 the size of a Nikon DX sensor, and only 1/2 that of my E-P3) I was pleasantly surprised with the ISO performance of the V1. After systematic testing I can see virtually no difference in ISO performance between my V1 and my E-P3 at up to ISO 3200. Depending on the scene, it is possible to get workable images up to ISO 1600 (in a pinch!) with both the V1 and the E-P3. At ISO 800 it is possible to obtain decent images over a somewhat wider range of scene types. However, in most (but not all) day-to-day shooting, I will be using my V1 at ISO settings of ISO 400 or lower (which, very conveniently, is easily done by selecting the ISO 100-400 option provided in the Auto ISO settings). It goes without saying that I'd prefer better ISO performance, but I can say the same thing about virtually every camera made, including my D3s (which has high ISO performance that still blows me away after several seasons of use). While I would prefer better high ISO performance in the V1, the reality is that in most of my walk-around shooting I am not finding then current ISO performance of the V1 to be excessively limiting.

How are the 1 Nikkor Lenses? Lens quality plays an obvious role in overall image quality. I purchased two lenses with my V1 - the Nikon 1 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6 Nikkor VR zoom and the Nikon 1 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6 Nikkor VR zoom. I have no objective or standardized way to test the lenses, but can subjectively say a few things. First, the build quality is good and they feel solid without being unduly heavy. Second, I find them surprisingly sharp at almost all apertures and focal settings, and they're quite uniform from edge-to-edge. I have the perception that the 30-110mm zoom is very slightly sharper than the 10-30mm, but can't empirically prove this. Third, both lenses seem to me to be maximally sharp at f5.6. I readily admit these are subjective impressions, but the results of more rigorous testing on slrgear_com are totally consistent with my impressions - go here to see the results for the 10-30mm lens, and here for the 30-110mm lens.

JPEG's vs. RAWS? I'm a dyed-in-the-wool raw shooter and have no comparative basis to judge the ability of the V1 to produce in-camera JPEG's compared to other cameras (I have never shot a JPEG with my D3s, D7000, D700, D300, etc., etc., etc.). One would have to be living in a cave not to notice that one of the trends in the evolution of DSLR's has been an improvement in the ability of cameras to produce better quality JPEG's (i.e., the gap between the quality of in-camera JPEG's and what one can do with raw files has decreased somewhat), so I decided to experiment with capturing RAW + JPEG's with my V1 (with the thought that maybe I could change my ways and perhaps that the JPEG's of the V1 would be good enough to satisfy me). My thoughts on the JPEG's? Well, in evenly lit scenes with low contrast lighting - the JPEG's seem just fine. Of the default "Picture Control" groupings of processing settings for the JPEG's (Standard, Neutral, Vivid, Monochrome, Portrait, Landscape) I definitely find the "Neutral" setting most to my liking (tho' the monochrome setting does a surprisingly good job of producing some quite interesting B&W output). But...the reality is that even with my walk-around camera I simply don't shoot many "evenly lit scenes with low contrast lighting" and I have already found that for the types of images I like (those that push the dynamic range of any sensor to the limit and often require exposure blends to extract all the highlight and shadow detail effectively) and I will soon be reverting to back to shooting only raw images with my V1.

3. Responsiveness: To me camera responsiveness refers to a combination of autofocus speed and accuracy, frame capture rate, the number of images that can be shot in a single burst, and, of course, virtually no detectable shutter lag. In the field this translates into answering the following questions with an affirmative response: Can I capture a sequence of sharp shots of a bird in flight? Can I capture sharp images of a running mammal (bear, deer, elk, dog, whatever)? Can a novice photographer capture sharp shots of his/her kids playing? The resounding answer to all these questions is YES. In responsiveness the V1 absolutely rocks! And it absolutely KICKS the competing products I've owned (Olympus E-P1 and E-P3) or used (Pansonic GF-1 and GF-3).

A few more comments on each aspect of "responsiveness"...

Autofocus (AF): To date I've used the AF system similarly to how I like to use it on my Nikon DSLR's - in Single-point AF where I am able to toggle the focus bracket all over the viewfinder (and it IS pretty much all over the viewfinder with the V1). I have used it primarily in continuous mode (AF-C) with the AE-L/AF-L button programmed to operate as focus lock only. In using the AF system in this manner I am able to compare its performance to that of my DSLR's. To be honest, it stacks up well - and it is easy to toggle the focus bracket to wherever I need it. Initial acquisition of focus is very snappy and seems on par with most of the lenses I regularly use on my DSLR's. The V1 uses both phase detect and contrast detect AF and in the crude testing I've done (the good old dimmer switch in a large room test!) the AF system seems to be pretty much comparable in focusing in low-light situations as my D3s (with a 28-300mm super zoom attached). Focus tracking of moving subjects in AF-C mode seems good to very good - in my standard "fast dog running directly at me at full gallop" test a high rate of images were perfectly sharp. At this point I haven't done enough systematic (and comparative) testing of the AF tracking to really say how it stacks up against my DSLR's in terms of ratio of sharp:soft sequential frames (using that same running dog test) but I can already say that in focus tracking the V1 is at least as good as moderately priced DSLR's. My one complaint with the AF system pertains to the size of the focus brackets - they're a little large for my liking (as they are in the competing cameras) and thus can limit the precision of the placement of your focus point.

At this point I have not experimented with the Auto-area AF and associated functions (such as Face-priority AF) sufficiently to comment on their performance. Auto-area AF doesn't have much value for me (and likely not for other advanced shooters using this camera as a walk-around camera) but I acknowledge that such camera-controlled functions can be very important to the success that novices will have with the V1.

Frame Rate and Buffer Size - Capturing Action! The V1 has both a mechanical and electronic shutter and the user can choose between them. When using the mechanical shutter the maximum frame rate is 5 frames per second (fps). At 5 frames per second the user maintains full control of the camera, including AF settings, focus tracking, exposure compensation, etc. Shift to the electronic shutter and you can choose between 10, 30 and 60 fps. BUT, you begin to lose control of the camera at frame rates above 5 fps. At 10 fps the camera automatically switches to Program exposure mode, unconstrained Auto ISO, a single AF point (the central one) and with no exposure compensation. Opt for 30 or 60 fps and focus and exposure are determined by the initial exposure and remain fixed for all remaining exposures in the burst. This behavior of the "camera taking over" and operating under a reduced feature set doesn't render the 30 and 60 fps frame rates useless, but does limit their usefulness in day-to-day shooting. In most situations I simply select the mechanical shutter and "live with" the 5 fps. And 5 fps is STILL quite impressive in a compact camera! And, I have found the lowest of the electronic shutter "Hi" frame rates (10 fps) does work very well under quite a wide range of conditions (assuming the scene is one which does NOT require exposure compensation, which is lost) and the autofocus system works quite well at the 10 fps frame rate.

Buffer Size? AMAZING! Up to snuff with the absolute best pro DSLR's. Shooting full size RAW + JPEG's? Well, you can hold that 5 fps mechanical shutter down for over 8 seconds (42 image buffer at that size). Shooting full size JPEG's? Almost 60 continuous frames! The V1 buffer size makes me dream about what the D4 will offer in buffer size! You aren't going to waste a lot of time sitting around waiting for the buffer to clear with the V1!

B. A FEW Sample Images.

At this point I am providing only a very few resolution-reduced sample images. Two main reasons for this. First, I'm still waiting for my preferred raw converter (Phase One's Capture One Pro) to add support for the Nikon 1 cameras. I find I can produce higher quality raw conversions and output with Capture One Pro than I can with Lightroom (which is what I used to convert the images below) and I can do it a whole lot faster. Second, I want to add some more variety to the types of images (and lighting regimes under which they were captured) before I post too many images. Full resolution Images showing ISO comparisons, image quality comparisons (between the V1, Olympus E-P3, and D3s paired with the 28-300mm f3.5-5.6 ED VR super zoom and more will appear in Chapter 2 of this field test (coming in early 2012). All the images below are conversions from raw captures, not in-camera JPEGs.

The images below typify the types of scenes that I expect a walk-around camera to handle (and the kind of scenes that I will be using the V1 for on a daily basis). All were captured within walking distance of my cabin in the East Kootenays of BC. Yes, I live in a nice place.

• Frosty Rocky Mountain Sunrise. This image nicely illustrates how the V1 raw files can be "pushed" to capture scenes that span a wide dynamic range. Download JPEG (534 KB)

• Foggy Sunset on Fairmont Mountain. An idiosyncrasy of the matrix metering of the V1 is illustrated by this image. Download JPEG (333 KB)

• Late Afternoon in Late November in the Columbia Valley. Can the V1 be used to capture natural-looking images of landscapes that cover a wide dynamic range? I think this image provides the answer. Download JPEG (689 KB)

• Good Night Kiss - Sun Bidding the Rockies Adieu. How about tricky sunsets? Download JPEG (514 KB)

• Bighorn Ram Enviroscape. Curious how a web-sized 400 ISO image (with no noise reduction) looks? Check this one out. Download JPEG (873 KB)

• You Looking At Me? Can the V1 - paired with the 30-110mm zoom - be used to effectively separate a subject from a busy background at "normal" working distances that most wildlife photographers find themselves at? You judge. Download JPEG (856 KB)

• Jose & Friends Playing at Hidden Lake. How 'bout capturing action (running dogs, flying birds, fast-moving kids) - can the V1 handle it? Download JPEG (359 KB)

C. The Nikon V1 - Likes & Dislikes...

There are some things I really like about the V1, and definitely some things that need improvement and that I hope to see changed soon. So here are my lists of likes and dislikes - hopefully with just enough detail so you can assess if each pro or con would be important to you...

1. What I LIKE about the Nikon V1: After the first 5 or so bullet points this list becomes somewhat random in terms of the importance of any specific point...

• Overall Image Quality: Much better than I expected, and especially with such a small-sized image sensor. Absolutely good enough to meet my needs for a walk-around camera. Lump "good quality lenses" into this bullet point as they are integral into the equation of variables that produce good overall image quality.

• General Responsiveness: In most shooting situations this camera is fast enough to meet my needs of spontaneously capturing action - AF speed is excellent, as is frame rate. And both are pretty much on par with most DSLR's. As is the shutter lag - it's virtually undetectable. A few quirks (see "Frustrating Mandatory Image Review in Viewfinder" and "Slow Wakeup from Deep Sleep" in my list of dislikes) slightly impairs the overall responsiveness and ability to capture action and/or some fleeting moments - hopefully Nikon will address these issues in coming firmware updates?

• Fantastic Burst Length/Duration: Imagine capturing 42 consecutive shots (full size RAW + JPEG's) at 10, 30 or 60 fps? Yep. Amazing. Matches even the very best DSLR. Capturing just JPEG's? Depending on size and quality expect to be able to capture between 58 and 100 images in a single burst!

• Autofocus: Fast, accurate, easy-to-use. Maybe not perfect, but at least as good as most current mid-range DSLR's. Meets my needs far better than competing cameras I have owned or used. Nikon - kudos for a job well done.

• Size & Weight: Easily meets my needs here, but not a pocketable camera so perhaps not the perfect walk-around camera for everyone.

• Menu Design and Logic: Seemed extremely intuitive to me, but I speak fluent Nikon-ese so I may not be the best judge of this...

• Auto Power On When Zoom Unlocked: If you're using the V1 with a zoom lens with a locking ring (like the 10-30mm or the 30-110mm), the instant you twist/unlock the zoom the camera turns itself on - there's no need to do anything else to turn the camera on. This may seem like a trivial thing, but I really like it and it can make the difference between catching a fleeting moment and missing it.

• Eye Sensor LCD/Viewfinder Switching Mechanism: There's a small sensor near the viewfinder that turns the electronic viewfinder on (and turns the LCD off) when you raise the camera to your eye. Move the camera away from your eye and the viewfinder turns itself off and the LCD is turn on. Real simple, real nice.

• Switch for Aperture Adjustment: This un-named thin toggle switch is positioned almost perfectly and makes switching aperture settings an almost thoughtless process.

• Balance of Simplicity & Advanced Featured Set: Very well thought-out balance of simplicity and ease-of-use (important to novice users) yet with easy access to main functions and features a more advanced shooter would want. Geez, almost makes you think Steve Jobs was involved with the design of this camera!

• Full Aperture Control While in Programmed Auto Exposure Mode: Read this one closely! Finally, a Programmed Auto Mode that makes eminent sense! Walk around with the camera in Programmed Auto Exposure Mode and it's always ready to shoot and capture that unexpected and fleeting moment (and, in most cases, give you a pretty OK shot) - all without touching ANY controls other than the shutter release. But the instant you want to take control of your aperture setting you simply toggle that same un-named button mentioned above that controls the aperture setting and "voila!" - the camera functionally shifts into Aperture Priority Auto (with full access to exposure compensation). Which makes this the first camera that I've owned where the Exposure Mode will be set to Programmed Auto on a day-to-day basis. The careful reader should be saying "huh?" right now as they wonder what the difference is between Aperture Priorty Auto and Programmed Auto on the V1. It's simply the aperture setting that the camera chooses when the camera is first turned on and pointed at the subject - in Aperture Priority mode the aperture will be set at whatever it was left at before the camera was turned off. In Programmed Auto mode it will be at whatever the camera decides is best (until you toggle the aperture control button, at which case YOU take over control of the aperture). Subtle difference, but it's one more smart little thing that makes this camera almost always ready to snap a good shot while still leaving creative control in the hands of the user.

• Very Good Build Quality: Both the camera body and lenses have that very hard-to-define feeling of quality. No feeling of plasticky "cheapness" with this camera. Sorry I can't define this any better - but I figure if Robert Persig took a whole book (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance) to try to define quality - and arguably failed - then I think you can cut me a little slack here. Discerning Nikon-o-philes will understand this next statement: feels more like a D700 than a D300! ;-)

• Viewfinder Grid Display: This is an option in the set-up menu that when turned on produces a 4x4 grid in the viewfinder. Great for those who can't ever get a horizon level. I like this option, but wonder why it isn't a 3x3 (i..e, rule of thirds) grid...

• Absolutely Silent Shutter: While this won't be my number 1 camera of choice for shooting wildlife images, I do like that you can capture still images with absolutely NO shutter sound if you do want to (select electronic shutter and toggle the sound off in the set-up menu). So when I'm 10 feet away from an adult male grizzly, I won't run the risk of having a shutter that sounds like a machine gun pissing it off! Good option for spies too!

• Shifting Between Shutter Types: As mentioned previously, the V1 offers both a mechanical and electronic shutter. And, it's fast and easy to toggle between them - simply hit the Function button and then toggle the un-named toggle switch on the back of the camera (is that enough "toggles" for one sentence??). Why would you want to do this? At least in two situations: you want to quickly change the frame rate from the 5 fps maximum of the mechanical shutter to the 10, 30, or 60 fps frame rate of the electronic shutter OR you want to switch from having an audible shutter (the mechanical shutter) to a soundless one (an option on the electronic shutter).

• Good Cold Weather Performance: I've been regularly shooting my V1 at temperatures down to -15C (5 F) and have experienced no problems with it. I haven't measured how the battery performance has been affected, but to date it hasn't been a noticeable problem. And, you only get comments like this in a field report when you read one written by a Canuck! ;-)

• Same Battery as D7000: This is one of those things that owners of D7000's (only) will like - it takes the same battery. Which means when you go on a trip with your D7000 and your V1 you can take fewer extra batteries along and you need to have only one type of charger with you. As one who regularly travels by float plane with weight restrictions I like this.

• Key Lenses - Same Filter Thread! This is another little thing that I like - the 10-30mm and the 30-110mm zooms both have 40.5mm filter threads. I only ever use one type of filter anymore (a circular polarizer), but at $100 or more a pop, it's nice that the same one fits both lenses. And, I only have to carry ONE with me. Of course, according to Murphy's Law, any new lenses that come out (like maybe a macro lens or perhaps a 200mm f4) will have different filter threads...

• GP-N100 GPS (optional accessory to record and add GPS coordinates to your image files): Small, light, unobtrusive, simple-to-use (just put it on) and quickly acquires a signal. One of the things I use a walk-around camera for is documenting a lot of things (rare species occurrences, poaching incidents, Orca fin identifications, etc., etc.) and having location data included in the file is extremely useful in almost all these instances. The GPS unit is so small I simply keep it on the camera all the time...

• Mount Adapter FT1 (optional accessory): This little adapter allows most Nikkor F mount lenses to be used with the Nikon V1 (over 60 lenses are supported). While the adapter has limitations (only single servo AF operation will be available; only the center focus bracket available for use; no focus-tracking) I really love the IDEA of being able to use my 70-200mm f2.8 VRII (which functionally becomes a 189-540mm f2.8 zoom) or my 200mm f2 (a 540mm f2!!) with my V1. But...how well this adapter works in reality still remains to be seen. It is scheduled for shipping in late December 2011. More info about the adapter is available here.

不是啦，是老款尼康两倍增距镜，基本无用。

FT-1 fyr pls James
. 本帖最后由 sunnycas 于 2013-8-14 22:50 编辑